Upgrade 60REx -> 120REx
Napsal: pát 21. srp 2020 23:04:19
Ahoj
tak panove je to tady, muzu se pochlubit vysledkem sveho dvou mesicniho pocinani.
A to je Upgrade I3 60 REx na 120 REx. Lze to.
A protoze nejsem skrt podelim se o tento pocin snad to nekomu pomuze.
Hi guys,
so finaly is it here and I can report results of two months effort – upgrade of I3 from 60Ah REX version to 120Ah REX. Maybe someone will have same idea, therefore I do share my experience.
1. Baterie
Baterii potrebujete z podobneho vozu jako mate vy, rozhodna vybava je vyhrivani sedacek.
Vyhrivani sedacek = vyhrivana baterie odporovym dratem na mrazicim rostu.
Nevyhrivane sedacky = nevthrivana baterie, pouze chlazena.
Kde a jak baterii poridit, ... jina kapitola.
1. Battery: must be from similar car – the decision point is seat heating. Seat heating relates to heating of battery through resistive wire on battery aluminum grid.
If there is no seat heating, the battery thermal management is running over fluid in grid.
Where to buy a battery is other chapter – used one make sense, new is very expensive.
2. Co je potreba k vymene
a) pllnicku klimatizace r1234yf (evropa) ma malo ktery servis.
b) moci pracovat s tezkym bremenem
c) teoreticky BMW kodovani
d) nekoho kdo neni posranej a pusti vas do dilny (zajmave obavy z elektra jsou vetsi nez z LPG)
Tato kombinace se zda orisek.
Poznamka: Snaha nechat baterii vymenit autorizak skoncila vzdy na tom, ze me vyfakli s tim at si u nich koupim novou za 5XX 000 Kc
2. What is needed for upgrade procedure:
a) Air condition filling unit r1234yf – not too usual in workshops
b) Ability to work with heavy loads
c) Theoretically BMW coding
d) Somebody in workshop who has balls and is willing to let you work there – interesting is that most of workshops have more fear from EV as liquid gas vehicle
Remark: Inquiry directly by BMW has always crashed with middle finger – buy a new battery by us (20k€) or nothing.
No a nyni vlastni proces.
Exchange procedure:
Musite dopravit vuz na montazni pracoviste, pozor baterie pri demontazi musi byt co nejvice nabita. Samovybijeni je 1 az 1,5 % tydne k balastu a pak neznatelne (asi se odstavi elektronika a balancing). Nicmene to neznamena ze ji vybiti kdo vi jak svedci..., pokud klesne napeti clanku pod 2,7V clanek se poskodi.
First get the car in workshop with fully loaded battery – self discharge is about 1-1,5% per week till lowest allowable charge level. Then is the self-discharge much lower (probably BMS gives up), nevertheless low discharge is nothing good for the battery… if the voltage drops under 2,7V per cell, damage of battery is almost sure.
Odstavit vysoko napetovy akumulator konektorem vepredu. A mit overeno ze doslo k odstaveni.
Then is necessary detach HV battery by orange connector in front connector and check in menu that the battery is detached.
Musite demontovat predni Frunk kuli pristupu k plneni klimacky, vyprazdnit chladici okruh.
Further demontage of frunk is needed to get access to air condition filling – cooling system has to become empty.
Odpojit silovy/vysokonapetovy konektor baterie, nejprve vyndat pojistny loop konekturek, pote vysunout do strany jisteni a pak zlehka v jednom kuse vytahnout. POZOR v prubehu vytahovani uz nemuzete zasouvat poskodili by jste konektor.
Then we need to disconnect high voltage connector of battery. First remove safety loop connector and gently in one piece slide out. Be carefull during pulling out – during pull you cannot push – otherwise the connector will be damaged.
tak panove je to tady, muzu se pochlubit vysledkem sveho dvou mesicniho pocinani.
A to je Upgrade I3 60 REx na 120 REx. Lze to.
A protoze nejsem skrt podelim se o tento pocin snad to nekomu pomuze.
Hi guys,
so finaly is it here and I can report results of two months effort – upgrade of I3 from 60Ah REX version to 120Ah REX. Maybe someone will have same idea, therefore I do share my experience.
1. Baterie
Baterii potrebujete z podobneho vozu jako mate vy, rozhodna vybava je vyhrivani sedacek.
Vyhrivani sedacek = vyhrivana baterie odporovym dratem na mrazicim rostu.
Nevyhrivane sedacky = nevthrivana baterie, pouze chlazena.
Kde a jak baterii poridit, ... jina kapitola.
1. Battery: must be from similar car – the decision point is seat heating. Seat heating relates to heating of battery through resistive wire on battery aluminum grid.
If there is no seat heating, the battery thermal management is running over fluid in grid.
Where to buy a battery is other chapter – used one make sense, new is very expensive.
2. Co je potreba k vymene
a) pllnicku klimatizace r1234yf (evropa) ma malo ktery servis.
b) moci pracovat s tezkym bremenem
c) teoreticky BMW kodovani
d) nekoho kdo neni posranej a pusti vas do dilny (zajmave obavy z elektra jsou vetsi nez z LPG)
Tato kombinace se zda orisek.
Poznamka: Snaha nechat baterii vymenit autorizak skoncila vzdy na tom, ze me vyfakli s tim at si u nich koupim novou za 5XX 000 Kc
2. What is needed for upgrade procedure:
a) Air condition filling unit r1234yf – not too usual in workshops
b) Ability to work with heavy loads
c) Theoretically BMW coding
d) Somebody in workshop who has balls and is willing to let you work there – interesting is that most of workshops have more fear from EV as liquid gas vehicle
Remark: Inquiry directly by BMW has always crashed with middle finger – buy a new battery by us (20k€) or nothing.
No a nyni vlastni proces.
Exchange procedure:
Musite dopravit vuz na montazni pracoviste, pozor baterie pri demontazi musi byt co nejvice nabita. Samovybijeni je 1 az 1,5 % tydne k balastu a pak neznatelne (asi se odstavi elektronika a balancing). Nicmene to neznamena ze ji vybiti kdo vi jak svedci..., pokud klesne napeti clanku pod 2,7V clanek se poskodi.
First get the car in workshop with fully loaded battery – self discharge is about 1-1,5% per week till lowest allowable charge level. Then is the self-discharge much lower (probably BMS gives up), nevertheless low discharge is nothing good for the battery… if the voltage drops under 2,7V per cell, damage of battery is almost sure.
Odstavit vysoko napetovy akumulator konektorem vepredu. A mit overeno ze doslo k odstaveni.
Then is necessary detach HV battery by orange connector in front connector and check in menu that the battery is detached.
Musite demontovat predni Frunk kuli pristupu k plneni klimacky, vyprazdnit chladici okruh.
Further demontage of frunk is needed to get access to air condition filling – cooling system has to become empty.
Odpojit silovy/vysokonapetovy konektor baterie, nejprve vyndat pojistny loop konekturek, pote vysunout do strany jisteni a pak zlehka v jednom kuse vytahnout. POZOR v prubehu vytahovani uz nemuzete zasouvat poskodili by jste konektor.
Then we need to disconnect high voltage connector of battery. First remove safety loop connector and gently in one piece slide out. Be carefull during pulling out – during pull you cannot push – otherwise the connector will be damaged.